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Bali 's History from the 6
th century till 1940 |
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Nederlandsch Indies Verkeersbureau Batavia |
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Illustrated tourist guide to Bali 1914 |
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Map from
1897 |
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The Island of Bali. |
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Undoubtedly Bali is one of the most interesting and beautiful islands of
the Dutch Archipelago, if not the beauty spot par excellence. Not only
that daily may be observed the many interesting customs of the popu-
lation, who in contrast with the inhabitants of the other islands yet
strictly adhere to the Hindoo religion, but also the natural beauty of
the land, which reaches its culmination point at a spot called Panalokan,
far surpasses the other parts of the Dutch possessions. The trip through
Bali may be made in two different ways. For those who cannot spare too
much time, the best way is to land at the South coast at a place called
Benoa and from there cross the island to the North coast, going via Den
Pasar, Gianjar, Bangli and Kintamani, from some of these places making
excursions to other places named later on. For the Traveller whose time
is not limited it is best to land at the North coast at Boeleleng and go
across the island by way of Moendoek, the mountain lakes and Tabanan to
Den Pasar, from the latter named place taking the same route as given
above. There is a regular service of steamers of the Royal Packet Steam
navigation Company from Sourabaya to Bali, leaving Sourabaya weekly on
Saturdays, alternate at 8 a.m. or 4 p.m., depending on whether the
steamer calls at Madura and Banjoewangi, or not. On Sunday the steamer
reaches Boeleleng, the harbor of Singaradja, which is the Capital of
Bali, being situated on the North coast. It is the landing place for
those who wish to spend a longer time in Bali. The steamer drops anchor
in the roadsted, not far away from a pier or landing stage to which the
passenger is conveyed by small boat. It is advisable for all those
visiting Bali to go ashore at this place and to enquire at the agency of
the Steamship company when the next sailings from this place to
Sourabaya take place; the program for the trip may be mapped out
accordingly. This on account of the fact that most of the steamers
coming from the Molucco's call here on their way to Sourabaya, their
definite sailing dates only being known a little while beforehand. The
steamer then proceeds to Benoa on the South coast, calling once
fortnightly at Ampenan on the Island of Lombok. If such is the case, and
Ampenan is reached by daylight, the passengers have ample time to go
ashore there and make a nice excursion to Narmada, a description of
which will be given in the chapter about Lombok. Benoa is reached on
Monday; it is only a small place, the steamer mooring at a pier of very
simple wooden construction. The Traveller lands here and after passing
the customs, takes one of the small sailing boats which are always in
readiness to convey passengers to the other side of the bay. It is not a
very nice crossing, the more so when tide and wind are against and it
thus takes a longer time to cross. As a rule such is done in about half
an hour, but it may take a good deal longer. Another drawback of this
landing is, that on account of the shallowness of the bay, the boats are
not able to bring the passenger till the shore. Mostly the traps come
through the water up till the boats but sometimes they remain stationed
on the main road, in which case the Traveller has to wade through the
water till reaching terra firma or he may be conveyed to the shore by
means of the so called green cart, which generally is used to convey
luggage to the shore and which is pushed by coolies. As soon as the
traps are reached the difficulties are over and the trip to Den Pasar (Badoeng)
is continued along a good road, for about half an hour. |
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Den Pasar
(Badoeng) |
The trip to Den Pasar (Badoeng) is continued along a good road,
for about half an hour.
Tariff and distance.
Coolie at Benoa for carrying luggage . . Fl. 0.10 Boat
for crossing the bay.......................1 .50
Trap from boat to Den Pasar, dry roads ,, 1 .50 wet roads ,, 2.50
Distance covered by trap, about 5 miles |
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is the principal place of South Bali and the station of the Assistent
Resident. It is only a small place which shows traces of being enlarged.
All the European houses are new and there are many in course of
construction. The place possesses a fairly good resthouse, which is
under European management and which contains six bedrooms. Tariff Fl.
5.- a day. Permission to stay in the resthouse must be asked for to the
Controleur of the Place, as is the case with all the resthouses found in
Bali. The place itself does not offer much of interest to the Tourist. A
few temples, which however are very beautiful. a museum which is being
built in the different styles of architecture in use in the various
parts of Bali, is about all which is to be seen here. This however
alters when a cremation is going to be held. Then the Traveller may
witness one of the most interesting spectacles imaginable. But it is
only seldom that this occurs on account of its being so expensive. From
Den Pasar some very nice excursions in the near neighbourhood may be
done; f.i. to Tabanan, to Sanoer on the seashore and to Kesiman, where a
beautiful temple may be visited. The latter excursion may be combined
with the trip to Gianjar as the village Kesiman is passed then. From Den
Pasar to Tabanan, 14 miles, trap there and back Fl. 10.-. The first day
after arrival in Den Pasar is generally used to make the excursion to
Tabanan and back. The way leads along a rather sunny road, through a
most fertile part of the country and past interesting villages, which
are altogether different from those in Java. They are surrounded by mud
walls from six to eight feet in height and they are entered by a single
narrow gateway. The houses are built of mud and covered with straw and
they are mostly very small. Every bit of the country is cultivated and
it will be noticed that the different cultures are worked much more
intensively than is the case in Java; the principal culture is rice.
Interesting is the way in which the road is laid through ravines.
Whereas commonly the natives when crossing a ravine, make the road
descend to the bottom to ascend the other side again, the Balinese just
dam the whole of the ravine to lay the road over this dam, thus avoiding
ups and downs. An outlet is made in the bottom of such a dam for the
river or brooklet wich generally runs through the ravine. The dams are
called Balinese culverts. But it is not only as a layer of roads that
the Balinese are known. Also their waterworks for irrigating the rice
fields are most ingenious and well worth visiting. The making of tunnels
for irrigation purposes, the damming of rivers and such show the height
which the Balinese have reached as regards irrigation. Tabanan itself is
only a small place, like most of the Balinese towns consisting of a
cluster of houses sur- rounded by mud walls. Sometimes those villages
have one or two watch towers of considerable height, temples with or
without structures looking like pagoda's and a wide open space
surrounded by lofty and shady trees for the native bazaar. Children and
women are always in evidence while groups of men are seen preparing
their fighting cocks in what may be called sparring matches for the more
serious combat in the ring. When passing along the village streets one
threads his way through endless lines of small crates containing cocks
of all sorts and sizes, so that it really looks as if one happened to be
in a poultry show. Returning to Den Pasar, the afternoon may be used to
visit the Temples there, or when a native theatre is playing, to attend
such |
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From Den
Pasar to Kloengkoeng via Gianjar. |
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Distances: Den Pasar - Gianjar 21 miles. Gianjar-Kloengkoeng 9 miles.
Fares: Trap Den Pasar-Gianjar Fl. 1 5. id. Gianjar-Kloengkoeng single ,,
7.50 there and back ,, 10.- |
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At present the road from Den Pasar to Gianjar leads via Kesiman,
Soekawati and Pliatan; however a new road is being constructed via
Soekawati and Blahbatoe, which will shorten the distance by 5 miles. The
best way is to engage a trap at Den Pasar to convey the Traveller to
Kloengkoeng and back from Kloengkoeng to Gianjar and on to Bangli, as in
Gianjar and Kloengkoeng no traps are obtainable. Like the road to
Tabanan there is not much shade, the only trees planted on the borders
being cocoanut trees. The first part of the road does not offer much of
interest as regards scenery, but the villages in this part of Bali are
known as having the most beautiful temples, so the Traveller may take a
rest in some of these to have a look around in the different temples.
When nearing Gianjar the scene changes; a beautiful hilly country is
gone through, which offers some splendid views. The landscape is getting
more and more beautiful when nearing Kloengkoeng; some large rivers are
crossed, the most of them having cable bridges. Kloengkoeng is only a
small place; it is the station of a Controleur to whom permission must
be asked to stay overnight in the resthouse, and in those of Bangli and
Kintamani. in Kloengkoeng a good deal of wood carving is practised and
some fine specimen of this craft may be seen at the office of the
Controleur. The resthouse at Kloengkoeng, where the night is passed,
contains four rooms; tariff Fl. 3.50 a day. It is well managed and very
clean |
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From
Kloengkoeng to Karangasem. |
From Kloengkoeng to Karangasem.
Distance: Kloengkoeng - Karangasem 26 miles.
Fare: Trap Kloengkoeng - Karangasem Fl. 10. – |
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After spending the night at Kloengkoeng the trip is continued by trap,
which may be ordered from Karang- asem, on to the last named place. The
road leads via Satria and Manggis, at which place mostly a halt is made;
one crosses the large River Oenda, one of the largest in Bali. The
scenery along the route is very interesting and in some places shows
nice views. Part leads along the sea shore and past Koesambe, a calling
place for the steamers. The Traveller takes this way going, to return
via Moentjan, the latter road going through a hilly part of the country
with splendid views and beautiful scenery. Karangasem is a fairly large
place, situated about 31/2 miles from the sea shore. It has a large
native market and a good deal of intercourse. Many Balinese women are
passing walking erect with a firm step under heavy loads carried on
their heads. They are mostly tall and straight, with long black hair
which they bunch up behind in fantastic irregularity. They wear a
sarong, fastened with a cloth girdle, but nothing above the waist.
Indeed they are provided with a kind of scarf called slendang, but the
most of them wear this on their heads and do not trouble to pull it down
when meeting a stranger. In Karangasem resides one of the native
princes, who played rather an important part in the wars of the Dutch
with Bali and Lombok; his name is Goesti Djilantik. The resthouse, where
the night is passed, possesses three rooms; its tariff is FL. 3.50 a day |
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From Karangasem to Bangli
via Gianjar. |
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Distances: Karangasem - Gianjar 35 miles. Gianjar-Bangli 9 miles.
Fares: Trap Karangasem-Gianjar Fl. 17.50 id. Gianjar-Bangli ,, 7.50
Horse Gianjar-Bangli ,, 2.50 Horse attendant ,, 0.50 |
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As Gianjar does not offer much of interest to the Traveller, the best
way is to start in the early morning by trap from Karangasem to Gianjar,
to take lunch in the resthouse there, and to go on the same day to
Bangli. If however the Traveller thinks this trip too strenuous, he may
pass the night in the resthouse at Gianjar and proceed on his trip the
following morning. The resthouse at Gianjar has four rooms; tariff Fl.
3.75 a day. The road from Gianjar to Bangli is a very nice one, leading
past interesting native villages and through a beautiful part of the
country, ascending all the way. When passing through South Bali, the
Traveller may always observe some very interesting customs of the
people: the bringing of offerings to the temples (these offerings being
mostly made up from fruit or meat and from afar looking exactly as if
they were made out of flowers), the flying of large queer kites, native
dancing in which some very gaudy and queer costumes are used, etc. The
Traveller will always do well, when coming to a place to ask the
Government Officials for information if any dances or feasts are going
on, so as to be able to witness such. Bangli is a fairly large place
with some interesting temples. Unlike the other places, the Poera's or
residencies of the native princes are not demolished here, as they did
not take part in the last war and it is well worth while to visit these
very interesting buildings, which have some beautiful carving and
grotesque paintings. The resthouse at Bangli is only a small one
containing three rooms; tariff for a day Fl. 3.50. When arriving it is
advisable to order horses for the trip to Kintamani through the native
keeper, or if possible to ask the Controleur for assistance in procuring
horses. |
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From Bangli to Kintamani.
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Distance: Bangli - Kintamani 18 miles Fares Horse from Bali to Kintamani
Fl. 5.- Horse attendant or coolie ,, 0.75 Food for horse at Kintamani ,,
I . – |
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Leaving Bangli |
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the road steadily ascends and leads through a hilly country, mostly
cultivated with maize or used as feeding ground for cattle. In front a
ridge of hills hide everything from the view, but the sight when looking
backwards, is very beautiful, showing the whole of South Bali with the
sea in the background, some dark spots denoting the Island Penida and
others; to the right the mountain Tabanan is seen, while to the left the
lofty Peak of Bali, Mt. Agoeng, rises majestatically in the air. Going
on, the ridge of hills in front draws nearer and nearer and the road
passes through many cuttings in the hills, till at last, when through a
cutting, a spot is reached, from where the Traveller finds himself
suddenly confronting a spectacle as beautiful as it is unexpected. This
spot is called by the natives ,,Panalokan", meaning, ,,Look out". It is
the view over the enormous extinguished crater of the Batoer, out of
which two new and very active eruption cones rise, whilst to the right
the splendid crater lake of Batoer is seen. Standing on the edge of a
precipice, which descends steeply for a thousand feet, the Traveller
remains dumbfounded. Far away down the small village of Batoer is
discerned; in the background the two craters of the Batoer show their
activity by clouds of white vapor; to the right the beautiful crater
lake shows like an Italian lake its wonderful blue surface, whilst
further to the right the foliage covered slopes of' the Mt. Abang, rice
steeply out of the waters, presenting a wonderful combination of colors
in the rays of the sun. On the sides of the active volcano a dark black
streak shows the path of the lava stream poured forth at the last
eruption, which only occurred some years ago. The lava stream just
stopped at the temple entrance of the village Batoer, and on this
account the temple is held in holy reverence by the natives. The road
continues along the old crater wall, always giving the sight over the
old crater and its surroundings, past woods inhabited by monkeys, on to
the small village of Kintamani, where a resthouse is found. There is a
new resthouse with 6 rooms in course of construction. Tariff for the day
Fl. 3.50. From the resthouse a beautiful view may be seen when in the
early morning the sun rises. Then the whole imposing scene shows a
wonderful combination of brilliant colors; a spectacle, never to be
forgotten. The climate at Kintamani, which lies on an altitude of 5500
feet a.s. is very cool, the nights being even cold. Mostly a day is
spent at the resthouse, which time is used to make an excursion to the
village of Batoer and the lake. Horses for this excursion may be ordered
through the native keeper of the resthouse, the charge for a horse being
Fl. 1.50, while a coolie for edibles etc. is paid Fl. 0.35. The road
from Kintamani to the village Batoer is as far as Panalokan the same as
the one the Traveller came by. From there it descends in very steep
turns to the village, and in a good many places one has to descend from
his horse. The descent is made in about half an hour, for fully 1000
feet. The small village offers a dreary aspect, there being no
vegetation except a few pine apples. The interesting point of it lies
chiefly in the temple entrance against which the lava stream has stuck.
It is a difficult walk from the village to the borders of the lake, the
path leading over the old lava stream, which chiefly consists of sharp
stones, but it is well worth while to go there. Sometimes a small boat
may be hired to go out on the lake, but such is not always the case. An
ascent of the volcano, although possible, cannot be recommended, on
account of it being too strenuous, whilst native guides are not to be
had. |
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From
Kintamani to Singaradja via Tamblang |
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Distances: Kintamani - Tamblang 19 miles. Tamblang-Singaradja 12 miles.
Fares: Horse from Kintamani to Tamblang Fl. 5. - Horse attendant or
coolie ,, 0.75 Trap from Tamblang-Singaradja ,, 4.- |
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From Kintamani to Singaradja via Tamblang
It is advisable to start early from Kintamani in order to reach
Singaradja before lunch, the distance from Kintamani to Tamblang on
horseback taking fully 31/ hours. The way leads along a good road which
as far as Koeta Dalem, the highest point, follows the old crater wall.
At this village the road turns to the left, leaving the splendid view
over the whole crater complex. But the landscape which is now offered to
the view is not less beautiful. Now toiling up a steep ascent, then
descending a sharp declivity, the scenery at every point is exquisite.
To the North the sea is seen from far and the whole part of the country
passed through, is of a not to be surpassed beauty. A little further
coffee plantations are reached and on all sides the population may be
seen busy with this culture. Till the village of Tamblang the trip is
done on horseback. Here the horses are left and traps, which are always
waiting for passengers, are taken for the further part of the journey.
The first part of the road, after leaving Tamblang leads through a hilly
part of the country, which offers some nice sights. At the village
Koeboetambahan, one comes on the main road, which runs along the coast,
and which is very well kept, broad and shady; however it does not offer
much of interest to the Traveller. Past the well known temple of Sangsit,
which is situated on a byway of the main road, it leads to Boeleleng and
from there on to Singaradja, which may be reached a little after midday
. Boeleleng is on flat ground near the seashore, but Singaradja, some 2
miles inland is on a slight elevation Singaradja is the Capital of Bali
and Lombok, and the station of the Resident and other Officials of the
Government. It is a very healthy place with wonderful beautiful
surroundings. When on the main road near the Resident's house, the
Traveller sees in front the foliage and trunks of large trees, framing
charming pictures of well watered rice fields, whose tender green shows
against the darker hues of trees and hedges, to melt at last in the blue
of the sea. Behind, the hills swell upwards and seem to roll themselves
towards the great volcano.
There is a large and well managed resthouse, containing six large and
airy bedrooms and which certainly is the best resthouse in the whole of
the Dutch possessions. The tariff is according to the room, from Fl.
6.50 to Fl. 8.50 a day. |
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From
Singaradja to Batoeriti via Moendoek and the lakes. |
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Distances: Singaradja - Moendoek 28 miles. Moendoek-Batoeriti 20 Fares:
Trap from Singaradja to Moendoek Fl. 1 5.- Horse from Moendoek to
Batoeriti ,, 5.- Coolie or Horse attendant ,, 1 .25 |
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The well kept road follows the coast till the village of Boeboenan,
where it turns to the South. The first p art does not offer much of
interest to the Tourist, but this changes after leaving Boeboenan. Then
a hilly country is gone through which offers many splendid views and
sights and can best be compared with the country between Tamblang and
Koeta Dalem. At Boeboenan is a resthouse with four rooms, where mostly a
halt is made to give the horses a rest. The resthouse at Moendoek is
very nicely situated and at sunset a beautiful sight is enjoyed from the
front porch, on to the Straits of Bali and the adjacent mountains. There
is a nice and refreshing swimming bath near the resthouse. The next day
the rather strenuous trip to Batoeriti is commenced in the early
morning. A small footpath leads through a beautiful mountainous country
and a while after through well shaded coffee plantations, with here and
there experimental gardens, laid out by the Government. Going on, one
gets the first glimpses of the beautiful lakes Danau Tamblingan and
Danau Boejan; the slopes to the lakes are very steep and one is wond
ering at the work of the Balinese, who have nearly all of the slopes in
cultivation. A wooden flight of stairs descends to the lakes, but the
descent can only be done by people who do not suffer from giddiness. For
more than an hour beautiful peeps on the lakes far below may be had from
different points in the road, till one comes to the natural mountainous
dam which separates the two lakes; there is a signpost marked ,,Kijk Uit"
(Bellevue). The road leads further till Tojo Ketipat, where a cross road
leads southward to the lake Bratan. The road is far from easy and a
little after leaving Tojo Ketipat part of it has to be done on foot. At
some points glimpses of the Lakes Boejan and Tamblingan are had, showing
far below and a little further the lake Bratan is seen. Descending all
the time the. road gets a little better and about lunch time one comes
to the lake, a couple of small villages being passed. on the way. At the
borders of the lake Bratan is a small resthouse, which however is always
kept locked; the key may be got at Batoeriti. If therefore the Traveller
wants to stay over night here, he must arrange previously with the
Officials. In any case a rest is taken here and at the same time lunch
partaken of; thereafter the trip to Batoeriti is continued; the distance
being only 5 miles, it is reached in about one hours time. The resthouse
is nicely situated in a rose garden and countains four rooms. Tariff Fl.
3.75 a day. From this place a beautiful view is had on the Tabanan
mountain complex. |
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From Singaradja to
Batoeriti via Gitgit and the lakes. |
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Distances: Singaradja-Poernahan 4 miles. Poemahan - Gitgit 3
Gitgit-Batoeriti 27 Fares: From Singaradja to Poemahan, trap Fl. 2.50
From Poemahan to Gitgit, horse ,, 1 .50 coolie ,, 0.50 From Gitgit to
Batoeriti, horse ,, 5.- coolie ,, 1.25 |
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Another way of going from Singaradja to Batoeriti is via Gitgit and the
lakes. The best time to leave Singaradja is in the afternoon as then the
mountains in the background show beautiful colouring in the rays of the
sun. It is only a distance of 7 miles to Gitgit, which can however only
be done by trap till the village Poemahan, the remainder must be done
either on foot or on horseback. The road leads past terraces planted
with rice, variegated by woods and ravines; looking backwards, the
Traveller beholds a beautiful sight over the sea. When arriving at
Gitgit, a good impression of the clever way in which the Balinese
cultivate the steep slopes of the mountains may be had from the small
summerhouse, which is found just in front of the resthouse, this place
being a nice spot to spend some time at leisure. The resthouse at Gitgit
has three rooms; tariff per day Fl. 3.50. Passing the night at the
resthouse, the next morning an early start is made. in the beginning a
winding road, ascending steeply and which is laid out as a flight of
stairs, is followed, till one reaches the ridge of hills which forms the
natural division between the rivers running North and South. Thick
woods, used for shading the coffee trees are passed on both sides and
only in some places a glimpse of the sea to the North is had. A little
while further a small mountain stream is crossed and not long after Tojo
Ketipat is reached. The further part of the road to Batoeriti is the
same as the one already described, when going from |
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From
Batoeriti to Tabanan and on to Den Pasar. |
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Distances: Batoeriti - Tabanan 26 miles. Tabanan - Den Pasar 14
Batoeriti - Den Pasar direct via Koehoen 28 Fares: Batoeriti-Tabanan,
horse Fl. 5.- Batoeriti-Den Pasar, horse ,, 5.- Tabanan-Den Pasar, trap
,, 10.- Coolie Batoeriti-Tabanan ,, 1.50 Batoeriti-Den Pasar ,, 1.50 |
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From Batoeriti to Tabanan and on to Den Pasar.
The distance Batoeriti-Tabanan may also be done by trap, but this must
be arranged and ordered beforehand from Den Pasar; there is no fixed
tariff. The road leads from Batoeriti through a hilly part of the
country, which does not offer many views to the Traveller and it is only
when nearing Tabanan that here and there a glimpse from the sea far away
is had. Nevertheless the country is a very beautiful one and the ride
well worth doing. Reaching Tabanan in about 6 hours, lunch is taken in
the resthouse and the Traveller may proceed by trap to Den Pasar, which
trap has to be ordered previously. If he thinks this too strenuous, he
may stay overnight at the resthouse and proceed the next day to Den
Pasar. When going direct from Batoeriti to Den Pasar the road to Tabanan
is left a little after the village Sajan, to join the main road from
Tabanan to Den Pasar at Mengwitani. The resthouse at Tabanan contains
four rooms. Tariff per day FL. 3.50. From Tabanan the trip through the
Island is continued via Den Pasar-Gianjar----Bangli and Kintamani to
return at Singaradja and embark there |
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